裁剪就是將衣料分割成各種形態衣片的工藝(yi)。有批量裁剪(又稱工業裁剪)和單件裁剪之分。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)(an)照服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)號(hao)(hao)型系列制(zhi)作樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)進(jin)行多(duo)疊層(ceng)(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪。是(shi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)工業生產(chan)(chan)中的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)主要裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪形(xing)式(shi)(shi)(shi)。主要步驟為：①材(cai)料(liao)檢(jian)驗。主要是(shi)對衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)伸縮率(lv)、色牢度(du)(du)、耐熱度(du)(du)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)理(li)化檢(jian)驗，檢(jian)查疵點，測(ce)幅寬，整理(li)緯斜以(yi)(yi)及熱預(yu)縮等。②制(zhi)定(ding)規(gui)格(ge)和樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)。根據服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)款式(shi)(shi)(shi)、規(gui)格(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)性能和縫制(zhi)工藝要求，用(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙板(ban)(ban)制(zhi)成(cheng)(cheng)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)，并制(zhi)定(ding)規(gui)格(ge)搭(da)配等。③排料(liao)。將(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)排列在(zai)(zai)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)上(shang)(shang)或(huo)(huo)與衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)幅寬相同的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)紙上(shang)(shang)，以(yi)(yi)求最大限度(du)(du)地提高衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)利(li)用(yong)(yong)(yong)率(lv)。④劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)。按(an)(an)排料(liao)確定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)格(ge)式(shi)(shi)(shi)，依樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)劃(hua)(hua)出衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)輪廓和記號(hao)(hao)。批量大的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)產(chan)(chan)品通常(chang)(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花樣(yang)板(ban)(ban)(將(jiang)排料(liao)線路鉆(zhan)成(cheng)(cheng)等距連續(xu)針(zhen)孔(kong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)樣(yang)板(ban)(ban))，以(yi)(yi)刷樣(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)粉(fen)末刷入(ru)孔(kong)內使(shi)之漏下顯形(xing))取代(dai)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)。20世紀60年(nian)代(dai)出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)于服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)設計(ji)(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)計(ji)(ji)算(suan)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)輔助設計(ji)(ji)系統(tong)(CAD)，按(an)(an)實(shi)樣(yang)或(huo)(huo)比例繪出排料(liao)圖的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)新技術。⑤鋪(pu)料(liao)。按(an)(an)排料(liao)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)所需長度(du)(du)、幅寬、數量，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)多(duo)層(ceng)(ceng)疊鋪(pu)在(zai)(zai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪臺上(shang)(shang)。50年(nian)代(dai)除手(shou)工鋪(pu)料(liao)外，采(cai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)推車(che)或(huo)(huo)往返式(shi)(shi)(shi)電(dian)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)操作。80年(nian)代(dai)應用(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)自(zi)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)，能自(zi)動(dong)進(jin)行正、反面(mian)交叉或(huo)(huo)單(dan)面(mian)鋪(pu)料(liao)，自(zi)動(dong)理(li)邊、記數等。⑥開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)(an)劃(hua)(hua)樣(yang)線路將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)成(cheng)(cheng)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)。通常(chang)(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)立式(shi)(shi)(shi)電(dian)剪刀(見日用(yong)(yong)(yong)五金)，最高開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)(du)可達160mm，薄型織(zhi)物(wu)約200層(ceng)(ceng)。此外還有各(ge)種輔助裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪設備，如帶式(shi)(shi)(shi)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)布機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(又稱(cheng)環形(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji))、沖裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)等。60年(nian)代(dai)末出現使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)自(zi)動(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)(CAM)。⑦分包。將(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)好的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)按(an)(an)不同的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規(gui)格(ge)、顏色歸類，分成(cheng)(cheng)若(ruo)干(gan)包。⑧編(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)一件(包)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)各(ge)組(zu)合衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)(pian)(pian)編(bian)(bian)成(cheng)(cheng)同一個(ge)順序(xu)號(hao)(hao)。有以(yi)(yi)包編(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)或(huo)(huo)以(yi)(yi)件編(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)兩(liang)種。襯衫、睡衣(yi)(yi)等產(chan)(chan)品通常(chang)(chang)以(yi)(yi)一匹同色原料(liao)按(an)(an)序(xu)編(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)，對易產(chan)(chan)生色差(cha)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)采(cai)取分層(ceng)(ceng)以(yi)(yi)件編(bian)(bian)號(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)動(dong)號(hao)(hao)碼(ma)機(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)打印(yin)。⑨扎(zha)包。將(jiang)產(chan)(chan)品的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)組(zu)合裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)片(pian)(pian)(pian)按(an)(an)規(gui)定(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)搭(da)配要求包扎(zha)在(zai)(zai)一起，并在(zai)(zai)包外注(zhu)明標號(hao)(hao)，掛上(shang)(shang)標簽。在(zai)(zai)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)加(jia)工廠給客戶做(zuo)大貨時(shi)就(jiu)會用(yong)(yong)(yong)批量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)剪的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)方法進(jin)行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對(dui)(dui)(dui)合(he)體(ti)要(yao)(yao)求(qiu)較(jiao)高(gao)或(huo)特殊體(ti)型(xing)(xing)的定制服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加工、樣(yang)品(pin)等進行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。根據(ju)(ju)穿(chuan)著(zhu)對(dui)(dui)(dui)象(xiang)的體(ti)型(xing)(xing)或(huo)樣(yang)品(pin)測(ce)取(qu)各種(zhong)(zhong)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)數(shu)據(ju)(ju)。上(shang)衣(yi)主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)測(ce)量(liang)部(bu)(bu)位(wei)有衣(yi)長(chang)、胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、肩寬、袖長(chang)、領圍(wei)(wei)(wei)。緊身(shen)式(shi)(shi)女(nv)(nv)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)還需增測(ce)腰(yao)(yao)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、乳高(gao)、乳距、前后腰(yao)(yao)節(jie)長(chang)度等。褲的主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)測(ce)量(liang)部(bu)(bu)位(wei)有褲長(chang)、腰(yao)(yao)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)、上(shang)襠長(chang)。單件裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的方(fang)(fang)法(fa)主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)有 5種(zhong)(zhong)。①比(bi)例法(fa)：即胸(xiong)度法(fa)或(huo)臀(tun)度法(fa)。上(shang)衣(yi)以人(ren)(ren)體(ti)胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)為基(ji)礎(chu)，下裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)以人(ren)(ren)體(ti)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)為基(ji)礎(chu)，對(dui)(dui)(dui)其他部(bu)(bu)位(wei)尺寸(cun)(cun)根據(ju)(ju)胸(xiong)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)或(huo)臀(tun)圍(wei)(wei)(wei)進行(xing)比(bi)例分(fen)配。②原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)法(fa)：又稱(cheng)基(ji)型(xing)(xing)法(fa)。依測(ce)量(liang)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)的尺寸(cun)(cun)為基(ji)準，繪制模具(ju)式(shi)(shi)衣(yi)片(pian)原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)，然后在(zai)原(yuan)型(xing)(xing)基(ji)礎(chu)上(shang)按(an)款(kuan)式(shi)(shi)特點(dian)作(zuo)局部(bu)(bu)調整，再進行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。③定寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：用文字或(huo)圖形(xing)將(jiang)各部(bu)(bu)位(wei)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)所(suo)需數(shu)據(ju)(ju)全(quan)部(bu)(bu)標出，然后按(an)標出的尺寸(cun)(cun)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。④短寸(cun)(cun)法(fa)：對(dui)(dui)(dui)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)各部(bu)(bu)位(wei)盡可能進行(xing)測(ce)量(liang)，然后按(an)取(qu)得的數(shu)據(ju)(ju)進行(xing)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)。⑤立體(ti)法(fa)：在(zai)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)模型(xing)(xing)或(huo)人(ren)(ren)體(ti)上(shang)直接塑造服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)款(kuan)式(shi)(shi)，并做好各種(zhong)(zhong)標記，是將(jiang)設計造型(xing)(xing)和裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)融為一體(ti)的方(fang)(fang)法(fa)。縫制前還需復(fu)原(yuan)為平面(mian)，作(zuo)必要(yao)(yao)的修正或(huo)復(fu)制成樣(yang)板。常(chang)用于(yu)裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)某些立體(ti)感強(qiang)，造型(xing)(xing)難度高(gao)，衣(yi)料柔軟，具(ju)懸垂特性的女(nv)(nv)式(shi)(shi)時裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)。服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加工廠給客戶(hu)打(da)版(ban)時就(jiu)會(hui)用單件裁(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)(jian)的方(fang)(fang)法(fa)進行(xing)。